Where the Streets Have No Name

Alright, alright... I know someone out there must be awaiting the epic on Japan. This is everything, so settle in a comfortable chair, or break it up into small bites. You've been warned. Writing about our experience is no small task because, first, we were traveling for 12 days, and second, it was a fantastic place. The best, most sublime experiences are often the hardest to write about.

I can give you one succinct bit of info : The dollar just hit a 14-year low against the Yen. Alright!!!

And Brad Pitt landed in Tokyo the day we left and President Obama, five days later. Maybe they hadn't heard about the exchange rate.

Turning Japanese

We, and our lowly dollars, arrived in Tokyo on a Wednesday evening. We stayed in an area called Shinjuku which I chose primarily because Tokyo is vast and sprawling, and Shinjuku Station is one of the best connected for getting around by train. And it's an area with bright lights! The first three nights, we stayed at a hotel that had everything we needed and not a spec of excess (including space) that we didn't. The location was also superb, barely a five minute walk from the station. In case you didn't know, Tokyo is phenomenally expensive and hotel rooms are often small and characterless with the bonus of costing a lot. So we climbed over our suitcases and climbed over each other to get into and out of bed since one side of it was against a wall, but we didn't go to Tokyo to spend much time in the room.

Our first excursion in Shinjuku was a good indicator of two constants throughout our stay: 1-We would get lost nearly every time we walked anywhere, and 2-Japanese people were warm and hospitable nearly everywhere we ended up.

We expected to stay local that evening since we were a bit fatigued from the flight. We flipped through a guidebook and quickly came up with something to try - a Shabu Shabu place - where you cook slices of meat in boiling broth. We set out with an address and a photocopied map the front desk gave us, optimistically believing that address+map=there it is! And thus began our love/hate relationship with the streets of Japan.


THE STREETS HAVE NO NAMES

I exaggerate; a few major roads have names. But most do not, therefore you must count lines on a map and estimate and guess (and curse). The other conundrum is the address system itself. Lacking street names, an address will include a series of numbers, for example, 1-12-24. The 1 should be the district; the 12 should be the block number; the 24, the building number. We had no idea what the numbers meant at first, and when we eventually solved the riddle, it did little to help us locate anything. It wasn't as if the blocks ran sequentially. You could be on block 11, looking for the building number, and suddenly block 11 changes to block 16. I can assure you that after many failed attempts at locating anything we sought day after day, my patience thoroughly evaporated.

So as we stood there with our useless information, looking dumbfounded, knowing we must be so close, a woman walked up to us and asked us if we needed help. Gratefully, I showed her the address and she surveyed the streets. She looked confused. Rather than politely giving up on us though, she called the restaurant for directions in Japanese! Then, I suppose she knew how utterly impossible it would be to explain it, so she walked us there! It was indeed close, but there wasn't even a slim chance we would have found it on our own. How are tourists supposed to find anything if the locals have trouble? Anyway, the meal was decent but unremarkable.

If The Door Is Open, Walk In

After dinner we walked to an area of Shinjuku called the Golden Gai. Sadly, a written description cannot capture the surreal atmosphere of the place. Removed from all the neon, it's a cluster of alleyways containing perhaps a couple hundred bars, each about the size of a closet. None holds more than four or five seats, if that many. Just walking past the open doors, peering into these dimly lit, bizarrely adorned, often cluttered, ancient-looking matchboxes made us feel other-worldly. Attempting to enter one can be intimidating as the places appear to exist just for regulars. The spot is named in guidebooks but more as something of a curiosity. One of my books even said to check it out but that you probably wouldn't be welcome inside any establishments. Fortunately, we ignored most advice from our guidebooks.

We walked past an open door, saw a smile and ventured inside. There were two guys behind the bar and one woman sitting at it. Not much English is spoken in Japan, so it's always going to be a little awkward sitting in a small room among a few people you can hardly talk to, but thankfully, they tried their best. One of the young bar guys was wearing an over-sized Clippers jersey (and a wool hat and black nail polish - kind of Tokyo hip-hop) so Paul was able to make some small sports talk. Kobe Bryant? Kobe Bryant, yes! They asked about our travel plans and suggested some sights, and then they would talk amongst themselves, probably about us, but who cares - now I'm talking about them.

The dust on the light fixtures was a good inch thick, and there was a pot of something cooking behind the bar whose conditions would not likely meet official health and safety standards but it looked and smelled scrumptious nonetheless. After a couple of beers we called it a night. Mesmerized by the atmosphere of the Golden Gai, we immediately talked of returning during our stay in Tokyo, but for now it remains a glimmer of memory as we never found the time.

Walking back to the hotel through Shinjuku, we got to see some of the other traditions of the city... possibly the most "gentleman's clubs" ever assembled in one district. Japanese gentleman supposedly prefer blonds, as was apparent by the young lady we saw bicycle up to a club, lock up her ride, then run into the club in a trench coat, blond hair flowing almost down to the tops of her thigh-high boots. Late for work, I guess. Tokyo is truly everything you can imagine at once.

 Finally, A Country That Has An Autumn

The next day we spent some time in Shinjuku Goyen National Garden. By the way, the weather in Tokyo was delightful. Cool and crisp and perfectly comfortable for walking around. Spring, with the cherry blossoms, and autumn, with the changing leaves, are quite hyped in Japan. I was expecting to see a bit more koyo (the word for colorful autumn foliage) but I suppose it was a late autumn in Tokyo and its surrounds because most trees were still rather green.

That evening we took a train two stops from Shinjuku (for the purposes of story flow, I will not detail how a 6 minute trip took us 50 because we didn't understand the subway directions) to an area called Koenji. Koenji is not, in fact, listed in the guidebooks. The maps cut off just before its location. I can't imagine why because it's absolutely charming.  Close to the station were several streets lined with izakaya which are bars that serve food. The one we randomly chose happened to be a lively Okinawan izakaya. Apparently it's an Okinawan thing to shout something - what? we wish we knew - when patrons enter and exit the bar. This practice was reinforced when we did later visit Okinawa.

We pointed at pictures on the menu, worked out a few words with an agreeable waiter, and ended up with some pretty good grub. By the way, I had no previous knowledge of the Japanese affinity for Spam. I can't believe I've avoided the thing my whole life only to eat it in Japan. We were obviously a curiosity since it seems that few tourists find their way to Koenji, but the curious were friendly. The woman sitting next to Paul offered him some of her rice.

After dinner we wandered into a small bar with no one else in it but the bartender. Of course he was playing nothing but The Rolling Stones because... this is Tokyo. After that we wandered some more and were about to call it quits when I saw a place down some stairs and for whatever reason felt compelled to try it. Izakaya Ichiya. Open 7:00 - 3:00. You never know when walking through a door will provide you with treasure.


Follow the Music


It just so happened we chose another Okinawan bar. Again, we were the only ones in it at first. The decor was eclectic to say the least: a bust of Elvis, still packaged Star Wars action figures, banners with Japanese writing, musical instruments, books, among other random items. The sincerely hospitable owner, later introduced as Master Mizuno, guided us in choosing an Awamori (Okinawan spirits distilled from rice) from the variety of big jugs lining the bar. Once our glasses were full, he took a sanshin (a traditional Okinawan stringed instrument) from the wall and strummed us a tune.

Eventually another patron joined us and he was as warm and welcoming as the Master and the cook. They offered us bits of food they were cooking, food they were eating. Master Mizuno asked us what kind of sake we liked. We said we weren't familiar with many types, so he poured us each a tall glass from a bottle of his hometown brew, as a gift. At some point he asked me why we came to Koenji and why we chose his bar. Was it the music playing outside? I don't know. Maybe.

We told Master Mizuno we would be traveling to Ishigaki, Okinawa, and he was visibly delighted, a common reaction from any person in Tokyo who asked of our itinerary. He said he had been to Okinawa but only the main island of Naha, not Ishigaki (marveling at the length of time non-Japanese spend on vacation). He wrote down the name of an izakaya in Ishigaki and the name of a friend and asked us, if we had time, to stop by. We said we would.

I think the only reason we left before 3:00 was that we tried to catch one of the last trains to Shinjuku, around 12:30, since taxis in Tokyo are obscenely expensive. In the station we got to see some more insane yet standard Tokyo: staggering drunks. Eating raw fish must do wonders for your health because something must be counteracting the massive amounts of alcohol the Japanese appear to consume. I was aware of this practice, particularly among business men, but it's still incredible to behold. And it's not only business men. We really feared for one woman who couldn't find her legs, so close to the tracks. On a Thursday night!


Where The Tourists Are (and Aren't)


The next day we went to Asakusa where the temple Senso-Ji lies. Up until this point, I had not noticed many obvious tourists on the streets of Tokyo. They were all here. It was almost China-crowded. We had some tempura for lunch and strolled through the old town and market streets surrounding the temple. Oh, I almost forgot because this happened so regularly; we searched for a particular tempura place listed in the book and failed to find it. I could copy and paste that sentence into every paragraph.

Later that evening, we met up with some friends from Hong Kong, Peggy and Sander, who happened to be in Tokyo at the same time we were. We met them and Sander's Tokyo coworkers at a bar near our hotel (so this is where the expats hang out). In search of dinner we took a chance on a place that had no English menu or pictures (not where the expats hang out). We did as best we could, and Sander blindly chose some dishes. Some worked out - the chicken wings, salad, asparagus. Some didn't - entrails skewers, diced mystery fish with appalling texture. So we went out for a second dinner. This place had a menu with pictures and a waiter who spoke some English. It was a good atmosphere too.  

Note: Japanese people do not seem to mind appearing in strangers' photos. Sander was ready with the camera and the fellow diners were ready with their smiles and ever-poised peace signs.

Mt. Fuji Was Probably Invisible Anyway

The next morning we left Tokyo for Hakone. It's an onsen (hot spring) resort area near Mt. Fuji. The plan was to take the fast train, about 90 minutes from Shinujuku, to where we could drop the luggage, have it forwarded to our hotel and sight see for awhile, possibly viewing Mt. Fuji. That was the plan until it took us one hour to locate the correct desk to buy the train tickets in Shinjuku Station, lugging our suitcases behind us the whole time. It was late enough that we went straight to the hotel. Mt. Fuji is notoriously elusive in even the slightest cloud cover, so we probably would not have seen it anyway. I repeated this to myself all the way to our destination.

We stayed in the town of Myanoshita at a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan,  called Hakone Ginyu. The draw of Hakone is the hot springs and this ryokan has private terraces with hot spring tubs outside each room, overlooking a valley. It was a bit over the top, but I thought it would be worth it for one night. And I can honestly say that the steamy onsen water and the beautiful surroundings helped me unclench my jaw over the train ticket fiasco. In fact, I instantly became addicted to the Japanese ritual of enjoying a hot soak. The minerals in the water simply work magic and my whole body felt relaxed after soaking. I indulged as many times as I could in our brief stay.

Our stay also included Kaiseki Ryori, a traditional multi-course dinner served in our room. I will sadly admit that we were somewhat disappointed by some of the offerings. We typically enjoy Japanese food and we are open-minded, but some tastes were just not appealing. It was a visually interesting experience anyway. We chose the non-Japanese breakfast for the morning; it was very good. Our hostess who served all the food was very helpful in giving us detailed information regarding getting to the airport.

Thanks to Those Involved in Keeping The Rain Away

From Hakone, we left for Haneda airport and flew to Ishigaki, Okinawa. I read about Ishigaki when we first came to Hong Kong and it's intrigued me ever since. The weather prediction had me concerned since this was supposed to a beach holiday. I got my wish and the rain held off, but it was still mostly cloudy and windy so it was cooler than I thought it would be and therefore not really beach weather.

Our first night, we stayed in town. That was the only time it rained, as we tried to find a particular place that served Ishigaki beef. A lot of Okinawan culture is distinct from that of Mainland Japan's, but lucky for us, they maintain the tradition of not naming their streets. So we were pretty wet by the time we hunted down the beef. Worth it. We actually did find the izakaya that was recommended to us, but it was full.

The next day we took a ten minute ferry to the island of Taketomi. It's small and scenic, and one attraction is touring the town in a cart pulled by a buffalo. We didn't take a buffalo tour (I had bigger buffalo plans in mind - more below). Once back on Ishigaki, we looked for a certain place for lunch... you can guess what happened... and we ate at an A&W.

I had arranged a dive trip for the next day so the dive organizer, Umicoza, had someone pick us up and drive us to the dive center to fill out some forms before dropping us at our next hotel nearby on Sukuji Beach. They advised us to dive the day after the next because the day we had arranged would be nearly impossible due to the high winds. Agreed. We ate at our hotel that night. It was a nice enough hotel, but maybe because it was not high season, it had a sort of The Shining feel to it. It didn't help that it was probably last decorated around 1970. I highly recommend the soft serve ice cream if you're ever there.

English is not easy to come by in this corner of the earth, but luckily one hotel staff member spoke enough to help us immensely with our updated plans for the next day. She was one of the sweetest, most accommodating people I've ever met. I like anyone who cracks them self up.

I Don't Know, But I'll Say Buffalo

The next day, with ferry and bus schedules in hand, we took the bus back into town to get the ferry, about 40 minutes, to Iriomote Island. This island is larger and relatively wild, and has natural attractions like beaches and waterfalls, but we've already seen those things, so we took another bus north along the coast to an out-of-the-way spot. We had one destination: Yubu.

Yubu, a very small island, lies across a short and shallow stretch of water. It has some gardens and a couple of gift shops, not much of a spectacle really. The journey was our real destination: you cross the water in a cart pulled by a buffalo. I can't really explain why I was so drawn to this peculiar attraction, but I simply was. So there we were, the only non-Japanese tourists on Iriomote Island, Okinawa, ferried by a buffalo. The "driver" serenaded us with a sanshin along the way. The tranquil buffalo seemed to effortlessly glide through the water, retracing the steps it must know in its sleep. We strolled around Yubu and caught the next buffalo back to Iriomote.

Between the infrequent buses and the ferry timing, the buffalo expedition was our entire day. We got back into town pretty early in the evening so we tried the recommended izakaya again and this time we snagged seats. We asked one or two people about Master Mizuno's friend but it wasn't clear whether they understood what we asked. One of the cooks spoke good English; he was A Korean passing through the kitchens of Okinawa. He came up with some good choices for us to eat, but I must say that everything everyone was eating looked fantastic.

Domo Arigato, Master Mizuno

They told us live music would start soon, and it did. A woman played the sanshin, a man played a guitar and a young waiter played... a box. The music was quite rousing and entertaining. They handed out wooden clappers they called sambas and asked us to play along. The woman asked in Japanese where people were from and the audience called out different places, mostly nearby islands or other parts of Japan. She asked us in unsure English and when we said New York, the crowd collectively chimed "Aaahhhh!"

When the band eventually took a break, we learned that the woman playing the sanshin was Master Mizuno's friend, Mama Machami. She asked if we knew him from the bar in Koenji, and we said we did and that he told us to come to this bar. She replied, "Yes, he called me." I can't believe he called to say we were coming! The guitar player was also a friend of his. During their break, Mama Machami gave Paul a quick lesson on the sanshin. The people, the place, the food... it was all so wonderfully enchanting.

I suppose you should always leave wanting more, and we did. Our friend back at the hotel had said we could call for a taxi and that it would take about 40 minutes to dispatch, so we erred on the side of caution, not wanting to miss the service cut-off time, and had a waitress call the hotel for us, thinking we had a 40 minute wait. No sooner than we ordered another drink the waitress told us the taxi was there. Unfortunately we left the izakaya quite abruptly. The memory, at least, lingers.

Is Zat Zee Octopus, Monsieur Crankypants?

The next day, Umicoza picked us up and took us to the dive center to get geared up for our dive. It's one of the only English-speaking dive centers on the island, and their web site made them seem really laid back and friendly. We missed out on that aspect as our dive guide was a rather unsociable French guy. We told him we were not very experienced, but we were the only two divers, so he didn't have anyone else to dedicate attention to. Somehow, he made us feel like he was doing us a favor by taking us along with him. A very expensive favor.

We did two dives and he had us come up significantly earlier than we needed to on the second dive, and then he stayed down there about ten minutes longer on his own. The diving itself was not bad, though not the highest ranking on our brief yet impressive list of dive sites. The highlight here is the manta rays, but we didn't go to the site where you can spot them. Cold French Dude said nothing about it. I asked the guy who runs the place when we were eating lunch afterward, and he said it was still too windy to go to that site. C'est la vie.

Lost in Translation

One last night at the Ishigaki Seaside Hotel and we were headed back to Tokyo. For the second round, we stayed at a different hotel, steps away from the first one, with more space and fabulous views. After dinner that Thursday night we went to a bar in Shinjuku called Vagabond. It was sort of bohemian and kitschy but in an authentic way, not like a T.G.I. Fridays let's put a sled on the wall way. There was a guy playing piano, mostly ragtime tunes. In a big cauldron behind the bar was a brew of tofu, boiled eggs, and boiled bacon in a grayish-brown clear liquid. We watched the barmaid ladle some into bowls from time to time, and it looked utterly disgusting. Though the most notable feature of the place was the clientele.

We squeezed into two seats at the end of the small round bar, next to two men still in their business suits. Next to them was a woman talking to her male companion. A very attractive, sophisticated-looking older woman, she kept looking over at Paul so finally he raised a glass to her and she beamed and headed straight over to us. She spoke some English, asked us the usual, where are you from, what are you doing in Tokyo, etc. She told us about the friends she's met from all over the world, some of them while she was in that bar. I thought her concentration on her words was due to attempting so much English. It took me a few minutes to realize she was drunk as a skunk.

She wished us well and walked back to her friend. Then one of the men next to us asked her to translate something for him, so she was right back next to us, comically leaning over this poor guy, oblivious to him, for about ten minutes. He just laughed every now and then as he was pinned back in his seat. How would it bother him? He was just as sloshed. Well, she never translated for him, but we learned a lot about her and her international friends and her philosophies. When she finally departed us, she simply picked up the guy's drink as if it were hers and she floated away. He just smiled and shrugged.

We watched as the barmaid filled another heaping bowl of the gray-brown tofu mess... and placed it in front of us. Our easygoing neighbor had kindly bought if for us. "Oh, we couldn't... we just ate!" It was true; we did just come from dinner, a particularly filling one since we were craving Western comfort food which we gave in to at a Wolfgang Puck Cafe. He looked discouraged and offered again, but we emphatically insisted we were too full. I felt so guilty because I'm sure it's bad form to decline a gift. Then again, what are the chances he remembers? He and his friend tottered out soon after. Oh, I have the name card of the woman we spoke to. If anyone wants to email her, just for kicks, tell her you met her in Vagabond. I'm willing to bet she remembers you.

Too Many Fish In The Sea?

The next morning we dutifully pulled ourselves out of bed to see one of the most popular tourist attractions of Tokyo: Tsukiji Wholesale Market. It's where every form of sea creature passes before landing on a plate. I was aware that the market had become off-limits to tourists in recent history because they were interfering with the organized chaos of buying and selling fish, but most of it is once again accessible. You do get an immediate sense that you need to keep yourself out of the way, and you have to dodge some mechanized carts that whirl by in the narrow, crowded lanes. The peak of activity is between 6 a.m. and 9.a.m. We arrived about 7:30 and business was indeed bustling.

The volume of fish throughout the market is staggering. I've heard of the issue of over-fishing. Witnessing this scene has made me wonder how there could be any fish left in the sea. Aisle after aisle, crate after crate. There was an aspect of the grotesque, but it was fascinating.

The thing to do after visiting the wholesale market is to walk over to the sushi joints and enjoy some of the day's catch. There are supposedly popular places where customers queue for ages, but I didn't seek any out because, really, there are only a handful, and how much fresher a selection can one place have than another just steps from the market? So we chose a place that was full inside - a good sign - with no wait outside. We both tried the chef's selection and fortunately, he must be used to foreign tourists because he asked us if we wanted sea urchin or a substitution. Substitution, please. Hey, some people can't get enough. We've tried it once. That was enough. So we each had eight pieces of sushi, two rolls, a piece of sweet egg and a bowl of soup. By nine in the morning.

It was good, but it would have been a large meal even for dinner and it did become hard to stomach so early. One of the pieces of sushi was squid. We had it a couple of times earlier in the trip (see mystery fish, above) and didn't know what it was, but the chef here told us what each piece was, so now we know it was squid. And I'm glad we left there with the ability to identify squid and the knowledge that we don't like it. Surprising, because we both like cooked squid, but the raw stuff has the worst texture, chewy and slimy at the same time. I bit part of it and admitted once we left that I hid the rest in my soup. By the time we exited, there was quite a line forming outside.

We then walked over to Ginza. It's kind of a shopping mecca of stores that I don't shop in, like Gucci, etc. But it was nearby and a beautiful day for walking. I read in my borrowed Lonely Planet Tokyo about a place called Sake Plaza in Shimbashi, which the book described as a brilliant four-floor showcase of sake and accessories with tastings on offer. It was a good walk from Ginza but it was still early so we committed to the venture. We actually arrived at the target with ease. It was the first time I found the exact location of something by the address given. Except that in its place was a restaurant.

More head-scratching, circling, questioning any possible errors. Finally, I suggested we surrender and go home, but this time Paul was intent. He scoped out helpful-looking people, (two women, as we had by now determined that women were the helpful ones) showed them the book and asked if they knew of the place. They were as perplexed as we were when they looked around and realized we were standing in front of the address in question. One of them went inside and asked for information. She came out and, again, they led us through the streets, pointing to the book and saying, "Mistake." Sake Plaza was nowhere near the address listed in the book. It wasn't even our fault! Also, Sake Plaza was basically a one room sake shop, not quite as Lonely Planet saw it. So we tasted some sake and called it an afternoon.

If You Can't Read The Sign, Ask At The Door

That evening Paul wanted to try Kobe Beef so we tracked down a place in Roppongi, an area known as an expat or gaijin (foreigner) enclave. Dinner cost a small fortune but it was fun to watch it prepared in front of us. The restaurant had kind of a 1980's gangster joint vibe to it. We walked through Roppongi, not straying too far from the station, contemplating where to go next. We saw a sign for a place called Charlie's Club. There was a list of charges written in Japanese, and somehow we figured that the cover charge was 1000 Yen (approx. $10). Roppongi is known for overblown cover charges, but there we were, so we gave it a shot.

The elevator opened to the basement containing a closed door. We almost turned back (if only) but someone heard us at the door and opened it. The "club" was a small cluttered room with a piano taking up almost half of it, a couple of couches, and a messy kitchen/bar behind another door. There were two other men there, who left soon after we entered, in addition to the piano player and two women employees. The piano man promptly obliged us with some tunes and one of the women sang in English with a heavy Japanese accent, like a tacky lounge act, with us their polite, captive audience. It was truly bizarre.

The scene did have entertainment value through the effects of what may have been intentional eccentricity, unintentional shabbiness and overall quirkiness. The piano man was obsessed with country music and the baseball team The Hiroshima Carp. He asked what we wanted to hear so Paul asked if he knew any Johnny Cash and he said, "Of course," then proceeded to play a Willie Nelson song.

We weren't sure if we were insulting them or doing them a favor by leaving, but as Paul paid the bill for the few beers we had between us, I thanked them and said good night. Once we got outside I noticed Paul's stricken face. That whole little episode of total weirdness cost a shocking and embarrassing amount. It turns out that we read the number on the sign incorrectly. And we didn't even call the guy out on the Willie Nelson song. Between the cost of dinner and the club, we cursed Roppongi, stopped at an ATM, and went home to bed.

The next day, after a lunch of surprisingly good crepes, we rambled over to Akasaka. We walked through the Hotel New Otani which is an elaborate hotel with equally elaborate gardens. They have a room for traditional tea ceremonies so we (I) thought it would be an enjoyable experience. It was fine, but it was a bit rushed and impersonal, not quite what I expected, but maybe what I should have expected when entering the plain room through an unmarked door down a distant hallway in a hotel. Not every door yields a treasure.


I Do Not So Desire The Wasabi

In the evening we set out for the Park Hyatt Tokyo, which is where parts of one of my favorite movies was filmed. If you haven't seen Lost In Translation, the hotel bar, as well as Tokyo itself, are practically characters in the movie. I wish they mentioned in the movie that the entrance to the hotel is through a deli on the second floor of an office building, but why start easily locating things on our last night in Tokyo? Once we tracked it down, we entered a lovely bar with gorgeous views of the city - and they told us up front there was a cover charge if we stayed for the live music. The service was commendable... there was a small bowl of crunchy snacks at our table and I fished out all the peanuts and left the wasabi peas. The waiter took note and asked, "Do you not so desire the wasabi?" I sheepishly said I did not, and he brought me a a fresh bowl of straight peanuts.

We left as the music was starting because we were aiming to eat a few stops over in Ebisu. It was getting a little late for dinner so we didn't explore much of the town, but we found a pretty good dinner spot.

Sayonara

This was our last night so the one place we chose to revisit was Izakaya Ichiya in Koenji. Oh, even our last hours didn't lack a challenge. The subway line we needed to reach Koenji was temporarily closed. Of course. We boldly chose another route and we did end up in Koenji... about three miles from our destination. We decided to hoof it, and by some small miracle we walked in the right direction. I might point out that we did not have a map of Koenji. We weren't sure of the exact location of the bar either. When we spotted the sign, it was like reaching Emerald City through the field of poppies.

Master Mizuno was not there, but the cook and the same friendly patron were. There were also others this time. The two who knew us asked about our trip to Ishigaki. We entertained them with some pictures on our camera and a girl came over to look and chat a bit before grabbing a sanshin and playing us a song. How can you not adore a place where people greet you with song? Another patron who spoke some English told us he rode a motorcycle through the U.S. He asked what we liked about Japan and I replied, "The people," and he said,"Thank you," with sincerity.

We had a late flight home that Sunday so we went down to Harajuku. Once past the overwhelming crowds near the station, it's a great area to explore, but we were time limited so we first walked to the Meiji Shrine. To my surprise and delight, many Japanese families dress their traditional best and visit the shrine on Sunday. There were women, girls and boys in exquisite kimonos strolling around, taking family photos. We even caught a glimpse of a wedding procession. We enjoyed a lunch in one of the many cafes in Harajuku, a satisfying way to end our time in Japan before the long haul back to Hong Kong.

I do believe I can compose a better travel guide than any I used. I spent countless hours researching the details of our trip, not so much what to do for leisure but the logistics, what is where and how long does it take to get there - that sort of thing. But some puzzle pieces simply don't fit until you're in the moment. I couldn't have planned that it would take a day to ride a buffalo cart for 15 minutes, or that my book gave misinformation on a sake shop, so there was some frustration upon realizing those things. Fortunately, the big picture softens all those edges and we are left with the authentic reflection of the traveled landscape.

If there is one place we will make an effort to revisit in Asia, it will be Japan. Tokyo is genuinely one of the great cities of the world. Okinawa was well worth the long trek - I continue to hear its music. The Japanese people are so gracious. Japan is a country in which you can spend 12 days yet remain aware that you've only barely glimpsed all there is, geographically and culturally. The culture is enigmatic in many ways. I know that the colorful montage of what you see can only be matched by what you don't see, below the surface, behind that door, up those stairs, beside the formalities and among the conversations.

Save It For Later

I had been thinking of a post and a title having something to do with guests and hospitality, but my mind is a little foggy and this title probably fits better at the moment anyway. We take off for Tokyo in exactly four hours, at 8:00 a.m. I started packing earlier than usual, around 8:00 p.m but with interruptions like making dinner, showering, putting off writing a blog, I just finished a few minutes ago. This is a long trip so packing actually took a bit longer. I always believe it will work out differently than me sleeping for about an hour before a flight. Oh well. I guess that's how my skill at sleeping on planes developed so well.

So, visitor updates: The cockroach is dead. Well, a cockroach is dead. A few days after I first saw it, Paul said, "I saw your friend this morning." I tried to guess who he meant, and then he said, "He was in the kitchen." He tried to get it, but it was too quick. Then we went out Saturday night for dinner and drinks with a group of friends so we got home late, about 2:30. As I was putting some things away, by the dim light near the kitchen, I saw the beast scamper by just as Paul was coming into the room. I pointed it out, turned the light on, and Paul asserted, "O.K. Get ready," more to himself than to me as he took a Karate stance. Then he punched the cockroach.

Mmm Hmm. Punched a roach. And with Mr. Miyagi-like precision and impressive brute force, Paul became the champion as it fell to the floor - or most of it fell. Some of it remained on the front of the cabinet it had been scurrying down and I think a leg or partial wing landed nearby. It was only maimed, not killed instantly, but my stealthy hero soon finished the job. Then I made him wash his hands thoroughly. I can only hope that the three sightings were all the same roach. I could swear the one I saw the first time was bigger, but I'm hoping it was the same one. Only time will tell. So one guest has gone.

VIEW DISCRETION IS ADVISED

Other guests: Last week was a record week for us. Two individual people visited us here in Hong Kong. Perhaps, I exaggerate a little, but the lack of visitors so far, precisely zero, has made me desperate. First, a girl Paul used to work with got married and honeymooned in Bali. She and her husband had one night in Hong Kong on their way home. They called one of Paul's coworkers about meeting for a drink and we all met up, and let's call this our first visitor.

Second, my friend Steve from high school, who I've reconnected with on Facebook, travels a lot for business. He was making his first trip to Shanghai with a two night stopover in Hong Kong. I met him for lunch the day he was leaving. Coincidentally, his office is a two minute walk from our building. We road the tram to a popular old tea house for dim sum, then walked through Hong Kong Park, and I pointed out some highlights along the way. It was approximately a three hour tour (a three hour tour).

True, neither individual came specifically to see us, but I'm still calling them visitors because - hey - that's all we got... now that the roach has passed on.

So in a few hours we will be guests in Japan. We'll miss Halloween here again this year. Last year we were in Australia. You may think it makes no difference, but it is actually a pretty popular holiday here. Hong Kongers love any reason to party. Friends described the scene around the popular bar area last year, how you had to queue for blocks to get near anything and the people traffic was separated by barriers only allowing one way in and out. Frankly, it doesn't sound appealing (cause I'm old). We will likely be soaking in a hot spring in the hills around Mt. Fuji instead. So be it.

The weekend before Halloween

We are truly looking forward to our trip. I won't know what to do with myself when we return; I've been doing nothing but planning it for about two months. I have to smile reading the email exchanges I've had from some places I've made arrangements with. I hear that the Japanese are remarkably courteous and it proves true so far. Also, Japanese to English translation must not be a simple thing because some of the phrases I've read just crack me up. I know it's just awkward translation, but it seems so precious.

Here is part of a confirmation email I received from one hotel:

Then We are waiting for Mｓ.Lisa Piraino to come from staff all the persons concerned and the heart...
Take care and come on the day.

And from the English web site of the dive instructor who I arranged a dive trip with:

Every time, nature of this subtropical island makes me excite and relax. As an scuba diving instructor working for Umicoza, I have always enjoyed them mainly from sea... Every time having been touching with this spectacular water world as a scuba diving instructor, I would like to introduce it to you... The way coming to this destination is by air or sea. Applying airplane is more popular, concerning about time. (If your holiday can afford to time, ship traveling also becomes preciousness.)

Don't you just want to hug them?

Well, it's almost a pity to be leaving Hong Kong at this time because the humidity has dropped considerably recently and you can walk a bit without sweating. Now is when the weather starts to become more pleasant.

So, am I entertaining when I'm delirious?

We'll be back on November 8. Bye!

Legs

I'm going to tell you a quick little story. It's not at all comforting and it might make you itch. First things first, Hong Kong is a densely populated place. It has cockroaches. Lots and lots of them. And this is a sub tropical environment with sub tropical sized roaches. I could be wrong, but I'd bet in a fight that a Hong Kong roach could kick the ass of a New York roach. Maybe when you live in a crowded city, these things are just a part of life, but it never has been for me before, so cockroaches sort of terrify me. I've dodged them on the sidewalks since we arrived here. Some are scurrying; some are squished lifeless and flat from an endless parade of shoes. I knew it was only a matter of time before one found its way up to Flat 2612 of J Residence.

If you didn't know, I go to sleep late. One night last week at around 1:15 a.m., I turned away from the computer as if I felt someone watching me. Across the room in the "kitchen" my eyes met this thing next to the sink. I stared for a second as if it weren't real, and then I registered the twitch of antennae. It was horrifying enough that a roach sat staring at me from my kitchen. The size of it is what froze me in panic. This may have been the biggest one I've ever seen. Like, PBS's Nature big.

I approached and, lacking a better idea, raised a shoe. I took one swat and missed before it fled for cover under the washing machine cabinet. I think in my heart, I didn't have it in me to make contact. You don't want a creature hiding in a mystery location, imagining it lurking in every corner for days to come (still). But I'm not sure what I would have done if I actually hit it. So I won't try to imagine that gruesome scene. I just sprayed lots of roach spray and I'm sure the memory will fade... one day... if it didn't invite friends.

I spent several minutes trying to represent the size of the thing with carefully arranged letters below, but every time I publish the post, the letters don't line up right. So I'll just say it was big. And yes, it's late as I write this, and yes, I look over my shoulder every now and then.

I should probably apologize for even sharing this.

Hey, two weeks till Japan!

We Are the World

Well, it's very interesting to hear, from a dedicated reader, that the blog music works back there in the U.S... Very strange. I hope you like the song, "Horse with No Name," because that's probably the last song you'll hear for blog eternity since I can't add anymore songs from Playlist. I'll have to see what I can do.

Yesterday was National Day, and it happened to be the 60th since Mao christened The People's Republic of China. I heard about the kerfuffle regarding The Empire State building going red in honor. I do think the decision was questionable. Overall, the day is celebrated in Hong Kong, but even here, there are protests. It seemed like the U.S. was kind of kissing up to China, as if they owe them money or something. Oh, wait...

We watched the fireworks display from the 41st floor lounge of our building. You can only see about half of them from our angle, but they looked impressive enough. Do you remember when I wrote about the fireworks we watched for Chinese New Year? I said that we couldn't see much other than smoke. I though it was poor weather conditions but I read some time since that two fireworks barges caught on fire, hence the smoke. Aha. At least there was a reason behind the disappointing display, and this one was much clearer. They were also offering wine in the lounge last night. Not too shabby for free entertainment that we didn't have to leave the building for.

They also had a big screen showing the celebration taking place in Beijing. It was of Olympic opening ceremony proportions. The Chinese certainly know how to create a spectacle. I got the message: Pay attention, World. Were not peasants anymore. I read that they seeded the clouds in Beijing prior to National Day so it would rain before and not during the festivities. The government really goes all out for appearances. What would they do if there were dissident clouds?

So there Paul and I were, watching fireworks in Hong Kong to celebrate China's National Day. We have been here over a year and a half, but sometimes I still look around and wonder how we got here. One thing is certain; it will be difficult to look at the world exactly the way we saw it before we left the comfort of our own.

We always relished our travels, but we now travel in a part of the world that we once hardly imagined. Now, when I read about the hundreds who died and the thousands who lost everything last week as a typhoon hit Manila, or the possibly thousands who died in yesterday's earthquake in Indonesia... it means something more. We've visited The Philippines and Indonesia. When wildfires tore through Australia earlier this year, I thought of panicked Australians because we've been there. Lots of Aussies live here too.

I think this is a condition of human nature. We care about what we know, what has a name and a face that we recognize. It's too much to carry the sadness of the world; the news would just be too overwhelming, but traveling spurs a greater consciousness. It's a willing participation. It makes it harder to be ignorant. It forces me to read the news. This must be a positive thing, somehow. As the world becomes smaller, our embrace of it grows larger. And the more familiar we all are with one another, the more likely the embrace is mutual.

When the Music's Over

Has it been a month since I last wrote? Oops. I could list excuses, but I'll just be honest; I haven't really felt like writing. Paul asked last week if the blog was officially dead, and then I felt a little guilty. I couldn't let there be zero for September, so I'm in just under the wire.

You may (or may not) have noticed that the music no longer plays on the blog. Weeks ago, we seemed to have a media meltdown of sorts. First, Playlist.com suddenly decided that they have copyright responsibilities. When I search for a song I get a message that says, "Due to licensing restrictions, some or all tracks may be unavailable for playback in your country." Um, I've only been using Playlist for the last year and a half since I've been in this country.

I originally found Playlist through this blog site's suggestions for web sites that allow you to add music to the blog. I decided to look up whether they had any other suggestions I could try, and as I logged in to do so, my blog music started playing. The songs were available again out of nowhere one day. I chalked it up to a temporary glitch and was happy to have my songs back. Then, poof, they were gone again a day or two later and have remained MIA ever since. It's not just the blog that I used Playlist for. We also had lists of songs that we just felt like hearing and don't own here. I know I can find other sites that should work, but it's just annoying.

Then Slingbox went dead. We eventually guessed that Scott, the Slingmaster, went on vacation and inadvertently shut down something that was necessary for us to use the program. So we stared at each other a lot for many days. Then Scott must have returned and Slingbox was back up and working perfectly - for about a day and a half. I though it was completely dead again, but Paul is more persistent than I am and tried it himself and found that it works, if you wait five minutes for it to start. Then you wait about two more minutes to bring up a menu - two more minutes after making a selection - three or four minutes before the picture stops skipping and makes everyone sound as if they're stuttering. Then it's fine for awhile - until it freezes.

We've had problems with the setup before, but there has always been a reason and an eventual solution. The most frustrating thing now is that there is no reason for this that I can pinpoint or comprehend. We can watch TV, for the most part, but it's such a pain.

Then in the midst of all this media failure, my favorite celebrity gossip web site went down! I mean, not that I concern myself with celebrity gossip. I only read the BBC news and respected literature. But some one's got to keep an eye on who Jennifer Aniston is secretly dating. I like to be ready for any conversation. Hey, the BBC news coverage of the escapades of, say, Italy's Prime Minister is not so different.

According to his government, claims about his relationship with a young woman whose 18th birthday party he attended in Naples and reports of him inviting scores of young models to his residence on Sardinia - are just smears orchestrated by the Italian opposition.

Just saying.

Have no fear. The gossip web site was only down for a couple of days.

Otherwise, the hours I've spent in front of the computer recently have been dedicated to researching our upcoming trip to Japan at the end of October. There's a lot of stuff in Japan! I've got some things booked and I'm still working on some. We're really looking forward to it. It seems like a truly foreign culture with beautiful landscapes. And lucky for us, the Yen just hit an eight-month high! I might have to sell my hair or something for this trip. Hopefully it's worth it.

I'll be back sooner than later. Now that I'm writing, I realize I've missed it a little bit.

Happy birthday, Claudia, and also all the September birthdays that I missed in my disappearance.

Soul Survivor

Continued... Seoul

We arrived in Seoul in early afternoon. We tried to get oriented but one thing that created a challenge: streets often aren't named. Some of the major roads have names, but other than that, the picture on the map is all you can go by. For two directionally challenged people, this means a lot of standing around, scratching heads, "stepping into the map" and some irritation. We first chose to check out the nearby Namdaemun Market. The concierge said it was a ten minute walk and showed us on the map. We got lost in 1.5 minutes.

Seoul is a big city, but most of the sights are centrally located either within walking distance or by a quick and efficient subway system or a quick cab ride if you have your destination written. The market really wasn't that far from where we wandering once we got a general sense of direction. It's a massive outdoor market selling everything under the sun. Since Hong Kong has its share of such markets, though on a smaller scale, I wasn't really seeking the sort of goods you might find there, except one. Snacks. It was a few hours before dinner.

We weren't finding much in the way of snacks as we hunted until I noticed a couple of options. A crowd surrounded a small storefront, queuing for something that looked like dumplings, which the shop workers were sorting into box after box like a factory line and which smelled fantastic. Then I noticed stands selling sliced melons on sticks. Those looked refreshing and I started to head towards one when something drew me back to the dumpling shop, and we added ourselves to the end of the long line of locals. The place was less a shop than a kitchen where you could see workers cranking out tray after tray of dumplings and the heat from it clung to the hovering crowd outside.

We didn't even know exactly what we were waiting for, but I essentially followed my nose, and the nose - as well as 50 people knowingly waiting for a taste - can't be wrong. A sign listed quantities and prices: 2=1000, 5=2000, etc., up to 25. 1000 Korean Won is less than $1. We ventured to try five. How bad could they be? And if they were actually bad, we'd have wasted all of $2.

As a fresh tray came out we were still in the middle of the line when a woman walked up to us and asked, "Two?" I said, "Five," and she put five pieces in a bag and we were suddenly done waiting. I guess she assumed we just wanted to try them rather than buy a box of 25 like everyone else in line. She was right. A couple behind us asked us in native English, "Is it quicker if you don't want a box?" surprising us because they were Asian. Maybe they saw us waiting and thought we were onto something... I wonder if they had to continue to wait their turn because they didn't stand out like we did. I don't know because we were already on our way back to the hotel with our prize. It didn't matter that we likely took a long way back because the dumplings were so hot we couldn't eat them for a long while anyway.

Then we tasted them. Definitely the best thing we've ever eaten for $1.60, and perhaps simply one of the best things we've ever eaten. True bliss. They were very different from Chinese style dumplings. We began mentally rearranging our next day's plans around getting more dumplings. Alas, it never happened so the taste was fleeting but the sweet memory lingers. We ate dinner at a Korean BBQ place that night, and it was enjoyable, but we would have forsaken it in a heartbeat if there were a dumpling in sight.

After dinner we walked around not far from the hotel and went into a bar that was oddly called Don Quixote. It was a Friday night so there were some people still in their work attire, mostly men. I think we were the only people there who ordered individual drinks and not a bottle of something. They didn't even sell wine by the glass. It was a telling glimpse of one aspect of Korean culture: drink yourself stupid amongst your coworkers, similar to the Japanese tradition. And the bartenders were all female, which sort of seemed like a throwback to another tradition of 'hostesses,' like geisha. They seemed to have hollow legs as well; every group who had a bottle in front of them poured their bartender a drink, and these petite ladies politely drank them all. On our way out, we saw a patron sitting on a curb, still in his suit, who didn't fair as well with a pile of vomit beneath his hanging head.

They had framed photos on the wall of Jodie Foster, Sarah Michelle Gellar and a couple of other celebrity women. Our bartender spoke only a little English but she was friendly so Paul asked her why the pictures were there, assuming they might have been patrons of the bar at one time. She said no, it was because they were famous and beautiful. She asked where we were from and when we said New York, she squealed and applauded gleefully. It was endearing. She said she had never been there.

The next morning we set out for Chang Deok Gung, one of the five remaining palaces in the city. I admit, I was enticed by the prospect of the so-called "secret gardens." I envisioned lush greenery and tranquility where you could stroll and relax. The only way to get in is to join a 90 minute tour. The palace itself looked similar to the structures of the Forbidden City in Beijing. Our guide had a strange manner of description, and I blanked out after about five minutes because the heat was just staggering. It was truly impossible to concentrate on anything with the sun extracting every last drop of sweat from our weary bodies. And the garden consisted of a small pool surrounded by some trees, not very rewarding. Paul may have mentioned something else here about how I was trying to kill him. All hearsay.

We eventually escaped, I mean exited, the palace and walked to the nearby area called Insa Dong which is a quaint, touristy area with cafes, tea houses and shops selling traditional Korean crafts. Last year when visiting the home of a friend here in HK, I remarked that I loved a lamp she had. She told me she bought it in Seoul, in Insa Dong, so I had a minor mission. We eventually found shops selling the same style lamps, all made from paper, and that's when Paul's real torture began. Anyone familiar with my decision making process?

It took awhile for me to decide. Of course that's an understatement, but do you really want more details? The shopkeeper eventually gave Paul a seat. When I finally pointed out the two - (hey it's now or never!) lamps I wanted, she told me I had a very good husband and that a Korean husband would have been too frustrated to wait so long. He's great and patient... applause, applause.

We had dinner at a Taiwanese place called Din Tai Fung (there's actually one here in HK too) which was pretty good. After dinner we decided to meander through the streets near our hotel in the Myeongdong district and we stumbled onto the hot spot to be on a Saturday night in Seoul. Blocks and blocks were closed to street traffic and masses of people shopped and ate among the endless maze of indoor shops and outdoor stands. It was a mix of everything, including Western stores like... The Gap!!! I was never so excited to see the familiar blue and white sign since nothing like it exists in Hong Kong. I was disappointed to find nothing I liked, and prices were higher, but Paul got pants. That was followed by Baskin Robins ice cream. We passed on the octopus legs for sale at an outdoor stand. The scene was vibrant and buzzing and a little crazy, and we would have no idea it existed if we didn't choose a random street leading there.

We stopped in a bar called 70's Radio on the way home. It was more casual then the previous night's choice, but the greatest thing about it was the waitress call button affixed to every table. Why don't they have these everywhere?

One thing that surprised us and would have delighted us if we spent more time in the city was the abundance of Dunkin Donuts. I've been craving a donut ever since I didn't have any when we were home in March. They're everywhere in Seoul and so are other donut shops, coffee shops, and I even saw plenty of signs for bagels. I guess they have a thing for New York because it figured into many shop names. I only had one donut in the airport, but I loved that I could have one every other block if I wanted.

I am happy to say that Seoul was a truly likable place. South Korea was not on our must-see list when we moved here. It's not that I had no interest in seeing Seoul, but a big city needs to offer something besides its big cityness when you've seen more than a few, and I couldn't imagine what Seoul had that other cities didn't. Maybe with little expectation, we both enjoyed Seoul more than we thought we would. Some tangible reasons: The people don't speak much English but were friendly anyway. There is good local food and an otherwise good variety on offer if that's what you seek. There are historical and natural sites scattered throughout the city. It's modern and efficient and fairly easy to get around. It's crowded and noisy yet feels very civilized. We felt an overall good atmosphere, a less tangible element that you may not be able to verbalize except to say, "I like this place." Oh yeah, it scores huge points for lacking hawkers. And having the world's greatest dumplings and the world's most recognized donuts.

Stay tuned for more adventures.

Ain't No Mountain High Enough

Another pin in the map: South Korea. We made it there and back with out Clinton having to rescue us.

We left last Tuesday, August 11, and spent most of the day traveling. It's 3.5 hours to Seoul and one more hour to Jeju, the island to the south that we visited. Of course all the in between time adds up, so we arrived at the hotel around 10 p.m. and I'm proud to say that I ordered room service for the first time in my life. It really works; they bring food to your room! We just split a club sandwich because it was late, but it was exciting nonetheless.

We started late the next morning after needed rest and asked the concierge about hiring a taxi to see some sights. This is the common thing to do. The taxi drivers typically speak no English, so the concierge writes their instructions down. I had some knowledge of the island's attractions but no sense of where things were, worth seeing or skipping, etc.

Being a volcanic island, there's a large inactive volcano in the center whose peak you can scale and peer down into its crater, but it's a several hour trek and we only had two days so we opted for other spots. You can see peaks and volcanoes all around in the distance, and the island's volcanic stone is everywhere - sculptures, walls, homes, souvenirs. There are also forests and beaches among the natural scenery. The concierge suggested spots on the Western side of the island, where we were based.

It was a grayish day, no sun, but no rain when we started out either. Despite our lack of understanding each other, our taxi driver laughed at everything we said and everything he said, a real hearty laugh from his gold tooth-filled mouth. We first stopped at a green tea plantation. You could walk around freely, but the crowds were mostly in the museum/shop where you could get everything green tea. The ice cream was tempting but we weren't hungry at the time.

Our next stop was Hallim Park, a pretty big complex consisting of many parts. They included stone and bonsai gardens, sub-tropical gardens, bird gardens and two caves classified as lava tube caves, Hyeopjae and Ssangnyonggul. The island has an extensive network of them. Fortunately, they are very different from the last cave we entered (bats, roaches, remember?). The only thing dripping from the ceiling was water. Each of the two was cool, dark and odorless, and no creatures were hanging, crawling, or lurking. Piece of cake.

Next we made a stop along the coast at Songaksan. The vistas were pretty but shortened and dampened by the gray mist. Our last stop was a peak called Sanbangsan. It was beautiful and intriguing as there were colorful artifacts adorning the climb upwards. We only made it a few flights of steps because the rain finally insisted on falling. We were lucky to have made it till about 5 p.m. that day, but it would have been nice to linger at that location.

We ate at the hotel that night, a BBQ buffet. The hotel also housed a casino, so Tai Pan Paul won about 43,000 Korean Won ($35) st the Blackjack table, and then we spent it on approximately three drinks in the posh lounge.

The next morning after breakfast we set out for the East side of the island, again with the concierge's written instructions for locations I chose - different driver. He was polite but not as jolly as the previous one. Our first destination was about an hour's drive away, Sunrise Peak. Peak=climb, so this is probably when Paul started to announce his suspicions that I might be trying to kill him. C'mon, there's a peak, what else can you do? This day was sunny and hot so we started missing the cool grayness of the day before, but really, the weather was perfect.

Down at the shore, there's a peculiar activity to observe. One of Jeju's unique attractions is the Women Divers. Historically, these were women who would dive to depths of 10-20 meters for over two minutes without SCUBA gear in order to collect valuable marine products, such as seaweed. Today, in this spot anyway, it's mostly just a kitschy show for the tourists. We were tourists, so we watched the women dive and surface, waving their clumps of seaweed and marine creatures.

We next stopped at Seongeup Folk Village, an authentic, still-functioning village where people live in traditional houses with thatched roofs. Our driver walked us into the village for about three minutes and then walked us back to the car. I was surprised it was such a small place since it appeared in the guide books and sounded like a worthwhile destination. Later when I looked in the book again, it said there were over 3000 homes in the village. I guess our driver decided for us that if you've seen three thatched roof homes, you've seen 3000.

Looping back towards home, the next stop was Jeongbang Waterfall. The heat reached its height at this point, so it felt good to stand close enough to the falls to feel the mist. It is said to be the world's only waterfall that falls directly into the sea. Our next stop was another waterfall, Cheyonjiyeon. The entrance was through a crowded parking lot filled with souvenir shops and refreshment stands. That's why it surprised me that past the gate laid a very pretty path to the falls.

It was around this time that I realized something and pointed out to Paul that South Korea should be his favorite Asian destination yet. Not one man, woman or child pitched us a book, tee shirt, bottle of water or any other less useful commodity... no hawkers! How refreshing.

Our last stop in the early evening was Jusangjeolli cliffs. I also realized that although all these attractions are popular and crowded, they're not China-crowded. You could move without suffocating.

Hot and energy spent, we hoped to take a quick dip in the hotel pool upon our return but were surprised and disappointed to learn that it closed at 6:00. Therefore, in our limited time there, we never even saw the hotel pool. Actually, the hotel was on a mountainside overlooking the ocean with access to a beach and we never even walked down to the beach. Oh well.

That night we ate a traditional Korean BBQ dinner at a restaurant that specializes in horse meat. We went for the less daring pork, cooked at our table. It was a pleasing meal and the server was friendly and told us how to manage the ingredients. We ate pork wrapped in mint leaves (I had no idea mint leaves could be so big). Yum.

Nearby our hotel there were a few luxury hotels and other attractions that make up the Jungmun Resort Complex. We strolled around after dinner and marveled at the amalgam of natural beauty, tradition, sophistication, modernity and tackiness. The Teddy Bear Museum says it all. Jeju is a popular destination among Koreans, mainland Chinese and Japanese. There's enough natural scenery to draw the crowds, but just in case scenery alone doesn't appeal to the Asian tourist, no effort was spared to offer every type of organized attraction imaginable:

citrus museum, chocolate museum, peace museum, sex museum, goblin park, love land, art park, water world, elephant land, maze park, water world, magic world, alligator town, miniature theme park, ballooning theme park, world eros museum, stone tortoise museum, natural love museum, ceramic ware museum, baseball museum, pony town, mask and bogey museum, psyche world, paper doll museum, dinosaur theme park and, of course, Happy Town.

We stuck with waterfalls and mountains, but I must admit... psyche world? Just a little curious.

You may think the island would be overflowing with cheesiness after that list, but it's not. Oh, it's there if you seek it, but so is a laid back atmosphere. The first impression of the island that I recall is green - lots of lush, green rolling hills and evergreen trees. As for all the man-made attractions, I saw signs for some, but they must blend in well because Jeju seemed like an otherwise normal, developed but not over-developed, modern, convenient, efficient, place to live - dotted with volcanoes and caves and cliffs - almost as if tourism was an afterthought, not a necessity.

Thankfully, every entrance fee to parks and such was minimal, and things are highly organized as to facilitate easy access to natural sites, though this might somehow make them alternately less accessible. You can see a lot, but you don't stand much of a chance of any uncharted, rugged or isolated exploration.

Well, continuing on our stroll that evening, we walked past the teddy bear museum and found a park with a bridge overlooking another waterfall. It was dark so we could only hear the falls, and the place was deserted. The two of us had a twinkling lantern-lined bridge to ourselves. To counter that peacefulness, we then passed through the Lotte hotel. Whew, that's where to go for a dose of sensory overload. Electric lighted horse-and-carriages, a pool surrounded by windmills and a volcano, complete with a Vegas-style show of volcanic flames and demons and noise. In contrast, the Shilla hotel next door was the picture of elegance and subdued sophistication. Rather than a volcano, there was someone singing operatically in the lounge.

The next morning, we were grateful to be taking off for Seoul because it was not just gray, it was pouring rain with no foreseeable end. Unless we gave in to the teddy bear museum or something similar, I can't imagine what else we would have done.

As my vacation posts continue to be epic, I'll write about Seoul in a second post.

Happy birthday to John.

And by now, we've just celebrated our 8th anniversary, a lucky number in China. We had a delightful dinner at our favorite restaurant, M, Saturday night and since yesterday was the actual date we went for sushi in our neighborhood. Here's to wandering the earth and dining together for 8x8 more years.